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atreus

column-staggered travel keyboard design

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Statistics on atreus

Number of watchers on Github 440
Number of open issues 4
Average time to close an issue 1 day
Main language KiCad
Average time to merge a PR 14 days
Open pull requests 1+
Closed pull requests 4+
Last commit over 1 year ago
Repo Created over 5 years ago
Repo Last Updated over 1 year ago
Size 12.6 MB
Organization / Authortechnomancy
Latest Releaser2-pcb
Contributors6
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  • Atreus Keyboard

The Atreus is a mechanical keyboard designed primarily to match the shape of human hands and to be as portable as possible. The case measures 26x12cm and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the =fn= key. There is a circuit board for this design, but it's also possible to [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To][manually wire the matrix]].

I've seen a number of existing DIY 40% keyboard designs, but most of them stagger the rows, which I find very annoying now that I've gotten used to the columnar layout of the [[https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.0][Ergodox]]. In addition, many of the designs I've seen waste a lot of room on the space bar, failing to take into account the fact that the thumb is the strongest and most versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems while taking a more couch-friendly single-piece approach.

[[./atreus.jpg]]

See [[./changelog.md][the changelog]] for the various revisions made to the design since its initial release.

** Kits

You can buy [[http://atreus.technomancy.us][Atreus kits]] that have all the parts you need along with detailed assembly instructions from http://atreus.technomancy.us. If you'd rather round up all the parts yourself, that's possible too since the design is completely open source; see the bill of materials below.

** Layout

Only a handful of punctuation marks (and no digits) are available unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row:

: q w e r t || y u i o p : a s d f g || h j k l ; : z x c v b || n m , . / : esc tab super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn - ' enter

The numbers and most of the punctuation are on the fn layer with a numpad-style arrangement under the right hand:

: ! @ up { } || pgup 7 8 9 * : # left down right $ || pgdn 4 5 6 + : & || ` 1 2 3 \ : L2 insert super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn . 0 =

The =L2= key switches it to the function layer, and tapping =L0= here brings it back to the first layer.

: insert home end pgup || F7 F8 F9 F10 : del pgdn || F4 F5 F6 F11 : reset || F1 F2 F3 F12 : super shift bksp ctrl || alt space L0

The [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk][firmware]] includes a number of other options, including colemak, dvorak, and software dvorak which sends keycodes assuming the OS will perform the translation into dvorak. Adding new layouts or changing existing ones is easy.

** Parts

*** Switches

This layout has five modifiers and 37 non-modifiers.

I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[https://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Click][Matias Clicky]] switches for typing. However, I like having [[https://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Linear][Matias Linear switches]] switches on the modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and fn) because the tactile effect has no benefit for keys that are held down, and giving a different response helps you learn the layout more quickly.

For users that need to operate in sound-sensitive environments like open offices or libraries, [[http://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Quiet_click][Matias Quiet Click]] switches are a popular choice since they still offer tactility without the noise. Other users prefer switches in the [[http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX][Cherry MX]] family, which use different keycaps and switch plates but still work fine.

*** Diodes

In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a diode. The [[https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062587][1N4148]] is a readily-available choice, but nearly any signal diode would work.

*** Microcontroller

The circuit board design uses a [[http://www.pololu.com/product/3101][Pololu A-star micro]]. Hand-wired boards can also use a [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] or [[http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMicro][Arduino Pro Micro]].

Be sure to get a microcontroller without headers so it will fit in between the bottom layer and the plate. USB micro is preferred over USB mini for this reason as well.

*** Keycaps

Caps for Matias switches are included in the official kits. Sculpted caps are also available [[http://matias.ca/order/#keycaps][from Matias]] or by harvesting from old Alps keyboards. It's recommended that you use unlabeled keys, because due to the different sizes and orientations of certain keys (backspace, shift, enter, etc) many of the labels will be incorrect if present.

Cherry switches have more options. This [http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/][DSA-shaped base set] from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a few extras we won't use. There are two deep dish keys in that set which you can place under your index fingers on the home row to help guide your hands to the right spot without looking. However, you only get a single 1.5x keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use them, so you might want to pick up an extra.

** Circuit Board

The =atreus.rkt= program calculates switch and diode positions based on row/column counts, spacing, and rotation factors, and emits a =atreus.kicad_pcb= file. The board outline and traces are done by hand and are stored in the =header.rktd= and =traces.rktd= files respectively. The =atreus.kicad_pcb= file can be imported into [[http://kicad-pcb.org][Kicad]] which can export Gerber files suitable for fabrication. A copy of the Kicad PCB file is included in the repository if you don't want to recompile it using Racket. Recompiling is only required if you want to make changes to the procedurally-generated portions of the board.

Unfortunately most PCB fabricators require a minimum order of 10 or so, making this impractical for one-offs. The PCB is not required, so for one-off boards it's usually more sensible to stick with a [[http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf][hand-wired build]] instead.

** Case

Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The [http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic%3D54759.msg1304117#msg1304117][mark II case] features 8 screw holes and a kind of stair step design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I has straight lines.

The files =alps-top-plate-3mm.eps=, =alps-switch-plate-3mm.eps=, and =bottom-plate-3mm.eps= are to be cut in 3mm acrylic or wood. The =spacer.eps= file should be cut on something thicker; between 4.5mm and 6mm is recommended. The spacer needs to be at least as thick as the connector of the USB cable you're using. If you are using Cherry switches, you should use =cherry-3mm.eps= for the top, switch, and bottom plates instead, but the spacer is the same.

There is also a programmatically-implemented version of the case written in OpenSCAD; it is more flexible (you can tweak the number of rows/cols, etc and recompile) but it doesn't match the canonical case exactly; in particular the screw holes are placed differently.

The original case (=case-mk-i.svg=) design is also included; it is slightly less wide and has a minor asymmetry with the screws on the bottom side.

On a 100W Epilog laser, the 3mm layers cut in about a minute and a half. I did a run with 6mm acrylic of the other layers which took nearly 6 minutes.

Wood cases should be finished with sandpaper and finishing oil/wax or with [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.pdf][lacquer]] which takes longer but feels nicer.

** Firmware

The [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk][TMK firmware]] is recommended. You should be able to change into the =keyboard/atreus= directory and run =make KEYMAP=qwerty= (or whichever variant you want) to produce a qwerty =atreus.hex= file. You will probably want to create your own layout once you've gotten a chance to try it and see what works for you. See the readme for instructions of how to upload it to the keyboard's controller.

There is also the older [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware][atreus-firmware]] custom codebase which works but has fewer features. It is recommended mostly for learning purposes since the code is much simpler and easier to understand than TMK.

** Bill of Materials

If you don't want to get [[https://atreus.technomancy.us][the kit]] you can source parts yourself. (You can also order a partial kit if you want to customize some of the parts.) Using Cherry switches is cheapest unless you can find cheap Alps-mount keycaps:

  • 50 Matias or Cherry switches from mechanicalkeyboards.com
  • 50 diodes from radio shack, ebay, or whatever
  • 40 1x, 2 1.5x Keycaps from signatureplastics.com OR full keycap set from matias.ca
  • A-star micro from pololu.com
  • Case materials from various sources
  • Case laser cutting: 7.5 minutes on a 100W Epilog laser; varies by source
  • USB micro cable, get anywhere

Recommended but optional:

  • 5 linear Matias or Cherry switches

The base keycap set from Signature Plastics only has one 1.5x key, which is used for the inner thumb keys. You can use a 1x key for one of them, but it looks kind of tacky, so I recommend getting a second 1.5x keycap separately.

*** Other Tools

You'll need a soldering iron, solder, and a wire cutter. A multimeter can come in handy for testing the connections but is optional. You'll also need eight M3 machine screws with nuts; the length of the screws depends on the thickness of the acrylic you use. You can add rubber feet to the bottom to prevent the board from sliding around when placed on a desk. You'll also need sandpaper and lacquer for the wooden case.

If you are building a hand-wired board you will also need a glue gun, hookup wire, and wire strippers.

** Assembly

See the [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf][assembly instructions]] PDF.

Hand-wired boards will want the [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf][previous edition of the assembly instructions]].

The LaTeX source to the assembly instructions is in the =assembly= directory.

** Inspiration

These fine projects all provided inspiration for various aspects of the Atreus, as well as the folks on the =#geekhack= freenode channel.

  • [[https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.0][Ergodox]]
  • [[http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/onehand-20-keyboard-t6617.html][OneHand]]
  • [[http://blog.fsck.com/2013/12/better-and-better-keyboards.html][keyboard.io]]
  • [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48718][ErgoT]]

** Builds

If you've built an Atreus, please add your name to [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/wiki/BuildLogs][the build logs wiki]].

There's also a [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/list][mailing list]] for people who have built or ordered an Atreus or are interested in doing so.

** Orestes

A new [[https://www.flickr.com/photos/technomancy/14654421878][experimental build]] uses the [[http://pjrc.com/store/teensy31.html][Teensy 3]] microcontroller and ARM [[https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3][Forth-based]] firmware, but this is not yet suitable for general-purpose use.

** License

Copyright 2014-2016 Phil Hagelberg and contributors

Released under the [[https://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html][GNU GPL version 3]]

atreus open issues Ask a question     (View All Issues)
  • about 3 years 3D-printing *.stl clearances
  • over 4 years Label ground/reset pins on PCB
  • over 4 years Label diode directions on reverse of PCB
atreus open pull requests (View All Pulls)
  • WIP Add Alps-compatible switch cutouts for the plate.
atreus list of languages used
atreus latest release notes
r2-pcb PCB Revision 2

Fixes issues in r1 with USB connector clearance and exposes RST and GND.

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